Omer Asim

by Oroma Elewa | January 24th, 2012 | 1 Comment

Photo:David Pattinson for Pop’Africana

One cannot list fashion’s most beloved models, or muses without mentioning Sudanese girls – the Alek’s, Ajak’s, and the Ataui’s. However, it seems that this might no longer be Sudan’s only call to fame. One can even claim that it is soon to be eclipsed by the quality of its burgeoning sartorial talent. Enter Omer Asim – a young man with unbelievable talent, an unconventional vision, and a strong referential connection to his Sudanese roots which all come together within his exquisite designs.
Omer Asim’s past showing during S/S 2012 London fashion week was a fashionable tour de force that had editors, blogger, and all sorts of fashion pundits buzzing about this refreshing talent. Naturally, we at the magazine also adore Omer Asim as he embodies a lot of the essence of our work. We caught up with this interesting young man recently, and we got to learn more about him – his background, his aesthetics, and his future plans. Enjoy!

Photo:David Pattinson for Pop’Africana

On Inspiration

OMER: In all honesty I’m not an ‘inspiration’ or muse kind of designer, but for this collection I wanted to hone a certain cut. I started out with wanting to create semi-fitted silhouette without cutting much into the fabric, i.e., no darts etc. I’ve always wanted to make a white collection, but it was very hard to find the right fabric, when I found the fabric this time I wanted to maintain its purity, hence the seemingly simple cut of this collection. To sum it up, I think this collection is about something very simple!

So it’s safe to say you aren’t aware of trends and don’t follow them?

OMER: I can’t say that I’m not aware of trends because it is very difficult not to be. Trends are shoved down your throat wherever you go, you don’t have to go looking for them. I dislike trends like how I dislike salesmen, the moment I sense that someone is trying to sell me something I resist it, I respond to trends in the same manner

Many a Pop’Africana reader will be hearing about you for the first time. Let’s talk about your origins

OMER: I’m Sudanese, born and raised in Sudan but I moved to England when I was 17yrs for college/university. I never thought I’d end up in fashion; in fact I wasn’t even aware of the option! I studied architecture and construction management, it was a natural decision at the time. After that I tried a couple of other things until I found fashion by accident. I’ve always liked to make things using my hands so when I found out about pattern cutting and the process of making cloth; I realized that I found something very special. Unfortunately, it can get a bit tedious sometimes!

Are you aware of the emergence of the African fashion scene and by this I mean fashions by African designers not particularly those living in Africa and that you are a part of it – a canopy you gladly stand under and too boxy for you?

OMER: Yes, it is all a bit strange, who would’ve thought?

Let’s talk comparisons? Do you get compared to Peter Pilotto or Jill Sanders?

OMER: I get compared a lot to Issey Miyake! I suppose it is the pleats! But people forget that Fortune is the godfather of pleats. Anyway, I think there is a bit more than pleating to what I do, I hope people can see it. Funny that you mentioned Peter Pilotto because people only see the prints and their cuts are often overlooked.

Does Sudan ever come into play in your designs?

OMER: I started out with the concept of the Sudanese “Thoub”, which is using a 4.5m length of fabric to drape and knot around the body. Not only is it a refined and postmodern way of dressing, but it is intrinsically African. However, things took a very unforeseen turn, and now I’m heading towards simple (yet complex) structuring. Of course no one does it better than Jill Sander. I’m glad you could see it.

Let’s talk technology because I’m surprised you have a website Omer. I’m surprised you are on Skype as well. What is your war with technology?

OMER: I’m just old folk. Don’t know what it is, but I think nowadays we spent a lot of time exchanging a lot of nonsensical information through Facebook, Twitter, etc. When do we ever make time to ACTUALLY work! And I also HATE mobile phones. By the way, Skype makes me illiterate, the typos are endless.

I agree on Spell-check not being at your rescue on Skype. However, I’ve just tweeted @SKYPE on twitter to add spell-check, and for me that is the beauty of technology. So how do you stay inspired?

OMER: And I was thinking the opposite ‘another reason to despise technology! I’m sure all those resources are good for people who work in the media and such fields, but I think there are a lot of people who use them for gossip mongering, etc. For instance, I don’t see why my 14-year-old niece should be up on Facebook until midnight…! I’m a bit old and grumpy as you might have noticed

Being so new and small, do you find it difficult to keep to the fashion schedule?

OMER: At the moment I only show at my agent’s showroom in Paris during Paris Fashion Week. It is very tricky from where I am at the moment. Developing a collection with substance every season is time consuming as hell. The feedback from SS12 was – The collection isn’t big enough!

What would Azzedine Alaia say?

OMER: No one can touch Alaia, he’s the first person that spoke out about what happened with Galliano saying the fashion industry expects far too much from designers. Alber Elbaz mentioned something very funny when he was in London earlier this year, he said that actors, writers, etc. only have to make a few good films, books, etc. Unfortunately, a designer can never make enough good collections, hence the rubbish widespread of never ending meaningless trends. OK Alber, didn’t say that last bit, I added it. He said that designers have to keep on going on making ingenious work forever in order to be current and relevant

There you have it but we’ll leave you to come up with your own reasons to closely watch this talented designer this year onward.
Below: Select photos from Omer Asim Spring|Summer 2012 collection.

More on Omer Asim: www.omer-asim.com